Radon Gas
Radon gas testing is a service we provide and think is very important to ensure that you have a healthy house. Radon gas is a radioactive gas that naturally occurs and gets sucked into your house through cracks in the foundation. It is colorless and odorless, so testing is the only way to know if your home is safe. This does not just affect basements or houses with basements. Houses with crawlspaces or built on slabs can also be affected. The concern here is lung cancer. So for a never-smoker, living for a lifetime at 4 pCi/L corresponds to roughly 7 radon-related lung-cancer deaths per 1,000 people. At 10 pCi/L, it's roughly 18 per 1,000.
Let's break that information down. pCi/L stands for picoCuries per liter of air. That is the way radiation is measured. In a real estate transaction, we regard 4.0 pCi/L as kind of the gold standard or action level. If you test the house as part of your inspection contingency and the level is 4.0 or above, the discussion is had whether to take corrective action. However, the caveat is 3.9 pCi/L is not magically safe. In fact, the EPA and Minnesota Dept. of Health both recommend trying to lower the level below 2.0 pCi/L. The World Health Organization says lower than 2.7 pCi/L is the target to hit.
Below 2.0 pCi/L: Relatively low. No mitigation recommendation, although there is no completely safe level of radon.
2.0–3.9 pCi/L: EPA and MDH say to consider mitigation because reducing radon further lowers risk.
4.0 pCi/L or higher: This is the EPA action level. Both EPA and MDH recommend installing a radon mitigation system.
Goal after mitigation: Get the level as low as reasonably achievable. MDH notes that a quality mitigation system can often reduce levels to below 2 pCi/L.
Coleman Home Inspections is licensed by the MN Department of Health for radon testing and uses the most modern equipment in the industry for testing. Our equipment has a real-time data connection to let us know the level and if any tampering is suspected. We use continuous radon monitors that take real-time readings of the radon level, temperature, humidity, and barometric pressure. There are many ways to test radon that are very competent, but this gives us the most confidence so you can make an educated decision about what your next steps should be to keep your family safe.
Radon mitigation (Fixing the problem)
The next question always is...what's the fix? That is to install a radon mitigation system. This is a system that most times employs a fan installed at the exterior, in the attic, or at least outside the envelope of the house. This fan causes a negative draw outside the foundation, either through the drain tile in the basement or under the floor of the house. This prevents the radon from ever getting sucked into the house, thus reducing the radon level. In houses with crawlspaces, a few layers of plastic "vapor barrier" are installed over loose aggregate or a manufactured radon mat that allows for even airflow or suction under the entire plastic area.
Caution, nuances
Homes with crawlspaces generally tend to be more expensive to mitigate compared to those with a rectangular poured concrete foundation and a sump pit. Additionally, houses with various foundation types also incur higher costs. For instance, a mid-century home with four levels, including a basement and a slab on grade, might require two suction points. Crawlspaces demand extra work and resources, which raises the overall cost.
Good news
It's generally feasible to correct or decrease radon levels to below worrisome thresholds. Reaching out to a reputable radon mitigation expert and discussing your radon test results with them will likely reassure you. Even homes with extremely high radon levels can be reduced to acceptable levels, as the system's goal is to block entry. Essentially, you're interrupting the suction, preventing radon from entering. Get your house tested, but don't worry—just mitigate it.
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